DIY 3 Way Switch Lutron Caseta Wireless Dimmer Install with No Neutral Wire or Traveller Wire


– Frustrated with your
smart switch installation because there’s no neutral
wire on the switch box? Today we’re going to install and set up the Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Dimmer in a three-way switch
application with the Wink Hub 2. And this video will also work
for replacing a single switch, so stay tuned. (upbeat electronic music) Hi again, John Stone,
the DIY Smart Home Guy. I get a lot of questions about what to do with a smart switch
installation when the switch box has no neutral or a white wire. There can be many reasons why
you don’t have a neutral wire in your switch box, the
most common that you’re in an older home and they
just didn’t use the same wiring practices that are found in a newer home construction. So today, we’re gonna use the Lutron Caseta Wireless
Smart Dimmer Switch. It’s important to note that this switch should only be used for dimmable lights. These include incandescent
lights, dimmable LEDs, dimmable CFLs or dimmable halogens. If you need a regular on/off switch, Lutron also make a non-demi
on/off in-wall smart switch. There’s also a link to the smart switch in the description below. If you’ve watched some of my other videos, you’ll recognize this
switch is the one I use to control my bar light. This switch will work standalone
or as a three-way switch if you purchase the pack
with the Pico remote and an additional Lutron wall
plate bracket for the Pico. There are additional helpful
videos and affiliate links for all products used in the
video in the description below. So let’s take a look at the switch. Inside the box you’ll
find the in-wall dimmer, the Pico remote, three wire nuts and a couple of mounting screws. The switch even comes with
its own decorative wall plate which is really nice. This is a very complete product in terms of what the
DIY installer will need to get up and running. Since Lutron provides the Pico remote in this particular kit, you can
have control over the switch without a hop, but
where’s the fun in that? So here’s some facts
about the Lutron Caseta line of switches. These are not Z-Wave or ZigBee devices. The Caseta line operates
on the 434 megahertz radio frequency and uses a
protocol which they refer to as Clear Connect. This essentially means
that you’ll either need the Lutron Smart Bridge or
a smart hub that’s capable of controlling the 434 megahertz devices. That is, if you desire
whole home integration. The Wink is just such
a hub, so that’s what we’ll be using today. If you want or need to use the SmartThings with the Lutron devices, you’ll need to do a little bit of research. SmartThings does not natively
support Clear Connect. According to Samsung, there
are currently no plans to support Lutron, but there
may be some third-party apps that will allow you to connect. I won’t be covering these in this video. If you’re wanting to use the Lutron switch as a three-way switch, you
can use the Pico remote by mounting it inside
this Lutron Pico remote wall plate bracket. In this video, I’m going
to walk you through how to install the Smart Switch in both the single switch application and the three-way switch application. So let’s go get this thing installed. Okay, we’re gonna be working
on the single switch right here that controls this one light bulb. This is just a standalone
switch in a single gain box that controls the light. And the first thing we’re
going to do as usual is turn off power to the circuit breaker. I’m gonna go ahead and
get this all opened up. Now it’s always a good
idea after you’ve shut off the breaker, just come
back in and test for power real quick, make sure you got
the correct circuit breaker and we’ll go ahead and pull that out and get zoomed in on that
so we can get a better look at what’s going on. All right, so looking at
the Lutron switch here, if we turn this around
what you’re gonna see is this does have a green ground
wire and only two black wires. So we really only need to
be able to connect into these two wires right here,
one of which is coming in from the power, and the
other one’s going off to control the light. And we will need to get back in the box and get the ground wires, those
are those bare copper wires that you see right there. And that’s what we’re gonna
need to get this installed. Okay so one thing that I wanted to try just to see if it would
work is I have not hooked up the ground wire. I’m gonna turn power back
on to make sure everything’s nice and out of the way here. And we’ve turned the power back on. Now I’m not gonna
recommend that you run this without that ground wire hooked up. I just wanna confirm that it would. If you don’t have any of
the copper grounding wires in that outlet box, it may
be possible to do this. I don’t know what it’s
gonna do to the electronics inside the switch, but it does
look like it’s gonna work. All right, turn that power back off. Now we push back in the box nice. (mumbles) right side up, and you’re gonna need the screws out of the little baggy there. Get that all centered in there. Just do your last bit of tightening. (power tool whirring) Just snaps right on. So now what we’re going
to do is we’re going to just remove it back to here. I wanna pull this back
to a normal switch box, and we’re gonna install it over here. This is my three-way switch. And we’re gonna pull these
three-way switches out and we’re gonna put this one over here and we’re gonna use that Pico remote and we’re gonna put this into a three-way switch installation. Now I’ve recently released
a video that talks about three-way switch installation. If you’re curious how that works, I’m not gonna go over it again here, but there’ll be a link to
that video popping out, and it’ll be in the description below. But what you should normally
see in a three-way switch is you’ll have your power coming in and then normal three-way,
you’ll have a black wire and a red wire. These are the traveler switches. These come over to the other switch, and then you have wire coming in and then one wire goes out to the light. And again, I suggest you
watch that other video because that’ll clear it all up. Now we’re gonna walk through,
because we’re gonna be using the remote, we’d have no more
need for this traveler wire. So the first thing we’re
gonna do is cap this off, and then the installation
of that Lutron switch is gonna be the exact same way. We’re just gonna hook
these things right in, hook that ground wire up, put it in, and we’re gonna cap that off right there. So just gonna throw a cap on that. That’s just a safety precaution. And that traveler wire, we can
shove way back into the back of the box. It really doesn’t matter. With this switch, anything
about the line or the load, you can just hook these straight in. So we’ve got the power wires
there, it’s gonna load. And we can just put that
in right there, all right? So we’ve got the red wire capped off, we’ve got the two black wires hooked up, we’ve got the ground wire hooked up and we just make sure we
have the right side up. Now these go in there a little bit tight, but you can see, it will fit in there. So let’s go ahead and get that in, and then we’ll move over to the next box. Okay, so in the second box, the in wire and the out wire, we’re just direct wiring those together. So this switch is actually
what’s controlling through this box out to the lightbulbs. So those two are already
connected together through those Wago wire nuts there. We’ll push those back in. The ground wire is the same. We don’t even need to worry
about that ground wire. We’re gonna shove that back in there. And just for added protection
so it doesn’t hit anything, we’re just gonna cap that
wire off and put that in. The next step is to get
that Pico bracket installed. When you look at the remote on
the back side of the remote, you’ll see you’ve got
some double backed tape. Now if you’d wanted to,
you could actually just pull that off, stick this on a wall and just take some regular
little screws there and you could actually
mount that on the wall and nobody would probably ever notice that, that wasn’t there. So remember we did that single switch installation over here. If we wanted to, we could
just throw one of these up on the wall and viola,
you’ve got a three-way switch with no wiring. In this case, we already
had a three-way switch and we wanted to use
this as a replacement. So what we’re going to
do is on the back here, this sits on a little plate. You can see this little
plate just pops right out, so we’re not gonna be using
that double backed tape. And then this is the
bracket, and on this bracket, down at the bottom, you’ll
see this little piece here, I don’t know how well you can see it, this comes out just a little bit. See I’m pushing it out there where we slid that double backed tape out. You’re just gonna slide
this into that same place and push it down in there real nice. And now it’s gonna pop
in nicely like that. And watching our orientation
on the switch there, on the little remote,
we’re just gonna get that started in there. All right, we’ve got the switch in there. Now we should be able to
turn our power back on. Nothing blows up. Turn that switch on, turn that switch off. All right. Now they actually sell
these cover plates here. I didn’t get one, we’re just
gonna put that old plate right back on there. And okay, so we have the
actual smart switch here and then we have the Pico remote here both mounted into wall boxes. The next thing we’re
gonna do is mount this in. So what we’ll do is we’ll
hold on to the off button for about six seconds, and we
should see these green lights right here flash. There we go. Now it’s ready to pair and
we’re gonna hold onto this for six seconds. And we are paired. So if I push that,
we’ll turn my light off. Turn my light on. Turn my light off. All right, so last but not least, let’s get this into the Wink Hub. In our Wink app, go to the
add product on the hub, just as we always do. All right, lights. And right up at the top, you
see the Caseta In-Wall Dimmer. We’re going after that. Go through the next. And connect now. And we’ll just push down and hold that till it starts blinking. And there we go. Give that a couple of seconds to register and we have success. So we can also connect the remote. We’ll do that next. Next. Same process. Hold down. Six seconds, little green light appears, starts flashing rapidly. And give it another couple of seconds and we should hit that success screen. There we go. All right, as though it was
the first time I ever did this. Okay so let’s try it out. On. Off. Long press and hold
this, check out the dim. All right. Bring that down, there we go. Off from the remote. He said off from the remote. All right, so what it
looks like is I paired this with my Wink Hub and now it doesn’t work. So I’m guessing I didn’t want to do that. So let’s go back and let’s
turn that off for fun. Three times, get it into pairing mode. Pair it back to that. All right, off. On. All right, so what we
just learned there is do not pair the remote with the Wink Hub. That’ll override its pairing
over to the master switch. So pair these two together
like we did originally, and then pair it to the Wink Hub and you should have on, off and on functionality. And just for giggles, I wanna look and see how long it takes for
the Wink app to respond. So we turn that off. And pretty quick, it
updates back in the Wink app that the light is on or off. So on, off. There you go. Other than being painful,
that was painless. Okay, so there’s the
finished product in my bar. All the way on, all the way off. And we’re controlling
this light right up here. Okay, because we have this
hooked in through the Alexa, turn bar light on. – [Female Computer Voice] Okay. – I really like this switch. Since I have it connected
into my Wink Hub, I have full control over
the switch just like I do with every other smart
device, which is pretty cool. I’ve also left a link
to the full Pico remote configuration guide in
the description below. Thanks for watching,
don’t forget to subscribe and don’t forget to click Like. And over here, there are
a couple of other videos that you might enjoy. For more reviews, tips and DIY videos, visit And thanks to all of you
that already follow me over on Facebook or Twitter. Both are @DIYSmartHomeGuy. Until next time, cheers.
(upbeat music fades)

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41 thoughts on “DIY 3 Way Switch Lutron Caseta Wireless Dimmer Install with No Neutral Wire or Traveller Wire”

  1. Paul Gieselman says:

    Great video. 🙂 Did you happen to notice if the wired smart switch itself can be removed from its attached pate (not the snap on plate?) I have boxes that have 2 or 3 switches and would need to use the 2 or 3 switch plate.

  2. Thom Rowe says:

    Is there a non-dimmer version of this switch?

  3. Josh Barney says:

    Is there any switches that work with SmartThings like the Lutron? I live in an older home and use SmartThings.. Thanks

  4. B. Pick says:

    As always great video. Can you link more than 1 pico remote to with wall dimmer?

  5. hail2030 says:

    Great video. Lutron announced on January 5th that SmartThings will be able to control Caseta Wireless sometime early this year.

  6. Mark Dodge says:

    Great video. In December I added the Pico to the Wink in addition to the Caseta switch. When doing so, I will as able select the Pico individually (as a connected device) from the Wink app and pair it to the specific Caseta switch. I could see the Wink app allowing someone to pair the Pico to multiple Caseta switches as an "all lights" type of switch.

  7. Hill's Channel says:

    Will those switches work with wink hub 2

  8. Joseph Wheeler says:

    Thanks so much for the video. One question: does it matter which box gets the wired switch, and which box gets the Pico remote?

  9. Bill Cherne says:

    Thanks for the great tips, really helped me out in replacing my existing 3 way switches. I wish these Caseta switches were around 4 years ago, would have saved a few hundred dollars wiring the 3-way switch between my house and garage.

  10. Clifford Martin says:

    In your video I noticed that it took a couple of seconds for the lights to turn off after you pressed the off button on the Lutron dimmer as well as on the Pico remote. Is this delay common?

  11. Daniele Testa says:

    I have a question related to the "2 wire loop". I don't understand how it can be possible to give constant power to the smart-switch and at the same time keep the light off? With no ground wire, it should not be possible. How are they handeling that?

  12. tallswag4u says:

    What about a 4 way connection? I'm sure I have a white wire, but I have 3 switches.

  13. dawiyo says:

    Thanks for the video John. Really informative. I'm planning things out for my new home and if I understand it correctly, with the Wink 2 hub, I don't need the Lutron hub to act as a bridge? Would there be any benefit to having both?

  14. JKLionheart says:

    Thank you! Clarifying that the transfer wires were no longer needed (obvious now that I think about it) was what was messing with my install. The Caseta advanced manual still wanted me to make use of it (which I think could still work?).

  15. Saturn2888 says:

    Have you tried pairing the Pico remote with the Wink Hub 2 without pairing or even installing a Caseta in-wall switch? I'd like to buy some of these and put them in for my smart bulbs and just cap the wires in the gang together.

  16. Darryl Byrd says:

    What about 4 way hook ups

  17. Igor Kravchenko says:

    Can I install 3 way z-wave dimmer, but do not replace the second switch and use it only as on/off? Will it work? How to wire it?

  18. kevin pope says:

    Will these work on a 4 way set up?

  19. kevin pope says:

    John, I have a smarthings hub. Which 3 way switch / dimmer can I use?

  20. Jason Bryant says:

    Very good video. I'm not sure how anyone can thumbs down this. Very good and thank you for making!

  21. David Skaret says:

    Hello John, Can you use smart wall switches to control outlets? My condo has wall switches that controls outlets that I have my table lamps plugged into them and want to use smart switches to control them and also use the wink hub to control them. By the way the wall outlets are switched on the top and live on the bottom, if that makes a difference. Thanks

  22. Orlando Mateus says:

    I want to use a Lutron sensor/dimmer on the stairs of a 3 story tenement building.  How can I do this? can you provide a diagram since Lutron doesn't make a 4way.

  23. Craig Larson says:

    If my current switch does have a neutral wire, can I still use this switch? Would I just cap off the neutral wire? I haven't pulled any yet to see what I have.

  24. John Inglis says:

    Can you use your wireless system in a 4 way switch set up?

  25. Kac P_man says:

    Thanks alot.

  26. rishi anand says:

    I only have 2 black wires and a green copper wire.
    what is the difference between the Lutron PD-5WS-DV-WH On/Off Switch and the Lutron PD-6ANS-WH?
    can I use lutron caseta system for my lighting?

  27. Tarek Faham says:

    I'm also using same lutron switch. I followed the instructions but I found only three connected wires in the existing switch. See photos here :

    As per the photos, I connected the lutron switch to replace the "first switch" in the photos above. I also wired the lines in the "second switch" box as instructed.

    After wiring is done, I turned on the power and tested every thing before inserting the switch in the box, and all worked great. Then I turned the power off. After I inserted the switch in the box and covered it, when I turn on the circuit and try to turn on the light, there was small short in the box then I turn off power immediately. When I opened the box, I see black marks on the wire nuts of the two black wires only.

    I think the green wire touched the metal inside the box since it is uncovered from the switch side. Or maybe the new switch touched the metal sides of the box since I could fit the switch inside by pushing it very hard.

    Was the switch burnt out? I'm afraid to try again. Please tell me what to do.

  28. Ray Gosberry says:

    Thanks for the video, I am currently trying to install the Lutron wireless dimmer but the wiring on my current dimmer switch doesn’t match what I see on any videos. I have 3 black wires, 2 going into the back of the box utilizing the push tabs and 1 wire secured with the bolt on the side. And then the ground wire. This is NOT a 3 way switch as there is no other way to turn the lights on and off. My initial attempt to install the wireless dimmer resulted in feedback coming through my receiver and my dimmer switch acting as the breaker for my entire theatre room. ( I tried the 3-way setup because it closest matched the videos I was seeing.) Any suggestions?

  29. JT says:

    I have a situation that I need help with. The goal is for the stair lights to turn on when occupancy is detected with the lights dimmed to a lower setting.
    Currently, I have a Lutron Occupancy Sensing Dimmer at the bottom of the stairs. Does anyone have suggestions regarding what to install at the top end that will also sense occupancy and turn the lights on dimmed?

  30. Vu Tran says:

    Excellent video. What is the max distance between switch and remote? can I have switch in livingroom and remote in master bedroom 50 ft away?

  31. EALXIX says:

    you didn't even mention what the purpose of the white wire is…it seem you made this video to work with what you made. I have a white and black coming out of the wall with no neutral…I'd like to put s a smart wifi switch there…that's what I'm looking for.

  32. Dean Rhodenizer says:

    Thank you, I do find your videos useful and informative. I especially appreciated your insights into Z-Wave paring with Wink and resolving related problems. Now, to this specific video, I guess you realized this afterwards but… when you pair a Pico Remote to a Wink Hub that does not automatically associate it with any particular Lutron Caseta device(s) you may want to have it control. It is still necessary to configure Wink so that a particular Pico Remote is associated (i.e. controlling) with specific Lutron Caseta device(s). When Wink is used, it gets in the middle between the Pico Remote and Lutron Caseta device(s) it controls. This can be advantageous at times. I have three Lutron Caseta plug in dimmers that control table lamps, two in an open concept living area and one in the front porch. Each has its own Pico Remote sitting adjacent to the lamp that it controls. But, there is a fourth Pico Remote that I configured to control all three devices; this allows me to turn on/turn off/ set brightness for all three lamps simultaneously. I find this useful if we are retiring early and don’t want to wait for the scheduled turn off of these lamps. I also find it useful when I am up early (still dark) and want these lamps back on. And yes… I have a Wink robot that turns off these lamps unconditionally at sunrise. I also have an Amazon Echo which can be used to control these lights – I refer to them collectively as “Base Lighting”. However, I don’t use the Echo to turn on these lights early in the morning because my (loud) dialogue with Alexa would disturb others who are still sleeping.

  33. Kamil Sutkowski says:

    Hey there, I’m having a lot of trouble getting my Lutron switch installed. The regular lutron on/off switch requires to have a neutral wire (which I don’t have) but the dimmer switch does not. Any advice or thoughts on why this is?

  34. Alex Domovich says:

    Awesome video…. but…. what if you have a neutral wire… what do you do with it? Do you cap it off? if not, where od you connect it to the dimmer switch?

  35. Manny Zepeda says:

    I have a few of these Decora 15 Amp 120-Volt 3-Way Combination Rocker Switch. Is there a smart switch that can replace this item?

  36. Mike Crow says:

    I have searched high and low and cannot find an answer… How many smart things can I have? With Alexa? And how does it affect my internet? Please help!!!

  37. Steve K says:

    Thanks for this video. The instructions and video from Lutron did not work. I did at this video shows and capped off the red traveler to fix.

  38. Oscar Suarez says:

    Hi, thanks for the video, but which of all the options you have listed on the description i have to buy? i have several options on amazon and im a little confused because amazon has a 3-way Dimmer Switch Starter Kit thats different than the ones you have, please help. and thanks.

  39. Frank says:

    I'm hooking up a occupancy detector (motion) in a room with the same two switch boxes you show in your 3 way switch.

    Then Occupancy Detector has three wires, a black, a red and a green. I know the black is the hot the green is the ground but have no clue what the red one is for.

    In the wall on one of the switches I have two black wires, one red and one ground which were all connected to the old switch.

    I've connected the OD, to the wall using the one black wire (connected to what I think was the hot wire) not sure because the switch I took out didn't have two different screws to identify the hot vs the not, to the black wire, the red wire to the other black wire and the ground.

    The OD blinks it's green light which tells me it's looking for motion but I can't seem to get the lights to respond. The other switch doesn't work either way. So I'm not sure if it needs to be switched up or down.

    Really confused….

  40. Frank says:

    Ok the switch is working however, the other switch is controlling the off and on. Is there a way to by pass this switch. I've capped off the red wire on the OD switch. But when I use the other switch it can still control the lights. Up is on and down is off.

  41. Frank says:

    So it appears I have to terminate the second box since it controls the lights as well. Will just capping them off work?

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